The Cove Dining Co, Abbotsford (3 October 2015)
Monday, October 05, 2015There is a specific Class B of brunch institutions proliferating across Sydney. The model is house-bread mounted with various garden-to-plate incarnations at low end pricing.
Notable Inner West classmates include Brickfields, The Wedge, John Smith Cafe and even Cornersmith.
The Cove is a Class B drop-out with an F for value.
The Cove teams up with Bakers Delight in a relentless hatred of the Atkins Diet. "On Sourdough" is a parasite to almost very choice. $20 plus for the usual suspects in eggs-on-toast ... expectations are rock-bottom.
House smoked trout with egg, potato hash on sourdough - $24. Fighting a losing battle to trout infatuation - I hand over the car keys.
Similarities to the Baked Salmon and Potato roast at my local Lawn Bowls Club. Fine quality cross-fire of woody flavours. Bread is unnecessary, but hey the baker needs a job. 7/10.
Black barley, spelt, sesame, sunflower and blueberry porridge - $15. Black barley exists? Race Brunch Repeat (RBR) Law #2 is broken - never order porridge at a cafe.
Like a sub-par girlfriend on a lazy Sunday, this is as boring to spoon as to look at. I'm contemplating self-flagellation..
Fried Beans with Chorizo, Speck, Tomato, Parsley, and Chimichurri on Sourdough - $20.
Bean overboard on the Port side! Sauce seepage eliminates the possibility of using hands. I'm OK with this, others may not be.
Rust colour shows slow cook, good spice and heat-upon-bite. Needs more sauce plus paired veggies.
As shown, chef commits the ultimate poaching crime. We've never been so insulted. 5/10.
Bruschetta with feta, baba ganoush, cauliflower, chickpeas and preserved lemon - $15.
Bruschetta is an oversell but complexity surprises. Superbly crispy chickpeas and cauliflower almost disguise the reality - veggies on toast. On par with trout was dish of the day at 7/10.
After a shocker of a poaching job, the chef's hands are shaking. Note the careless mounting job.
Over-flow on all sides. The bread is sinking, not dissimilar to my score:
- Food - 7/10 - solid flavours but elementary cooking mistakes. Needs non-bread options.
- Value - 5/10 - chef's shaking paws are in my pocket from first bite the last.
- Other - 7/10 - spacious, relaxing and decent service.
- Overall - 6/10 - OK for price inelastic diners seeking a simple feed.
Will I be returning?
No
The inside set-up occupies an old Nestle Site.
Happy to show face, as it's a first and last visit. Cannot speak for poor J & R.
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