At its core, Bootsdarling is a killer coffee barista stapled to a two-man shoebox kitchen operation. The sweet spot is food complex enough to differentiate, yet simple enough that each element has a purpose.

Chic interior design, chalkboard drinks menu

Given the location is 50m from Taylor Square, 'alternative is in' and so soy flat white is my beverage.

Soy flat white - $3.50

Best $3.50 beverage I've ever had aside from a half price Boost Juice. Aromatic, smooth and creamy. I was too dehydrated from the SMH Half Marathon to notice the heart artwork.

Zucchini, corn and ricotta fritters with trout and poached egg - $22

Cafe fritters are so predictable, so the question is why is this different?

Beached whale trout

First thought is that of a beached whale. Look at how the trout is lifelessly slumped across the fritter embankment. This proves both a pitiful and perversely arousing visual.

Initial mouth has me defeated. Delicately shaved zucchini delivers a soft, stringy texture you'd never get from a flour base. Add a creamy dimension from the ricotta and a pesto moat and this is deadly. I was so taken aback I almost forgot to pop the yolk on top ... almost.

Excellent yolk seepage into the fritters

The trout was tackled separately and I rejoiced in rescuing the whale by dismantling the flaky flesh, piece by piece. The final reward was a crispy skin. Critical. Such a simple yet tasty dish with every element having a purpose.

Unusual choice for Lorie in a pasta special for brunch. Rules are made to be broken. Having been told this is lunch only, I explained to the nice waiter the missus is carb loading (for the 30m walk back to the car).

Mediterranean pasta with salsa verde, olives, capers and sun-dried tomatoes - $12

Flavour wise it's a very solid effort and comparable to a good mid-range Italian kitchen (e.g. Fratelli). Can't fault the quality produce, al dente pasta and sauce-pasta coverage. Mini mushrooms worked like a charm.

If you (i) crave pesto, and (ii) love value, then this is the dish for you. A surprise outperformance with 'good food good price' being the obvious pull.

A sincere performance from two guys so space constrained with a score to match:
- Food - 8.5/10 - simple, tasty yet innovative enough to avert the DIY-risk.
- Value - 7.5/10 - wide spread. Low teens cheap up to north of $20 not-cheap. Portions acceptable.
- Other - 7/10 - nailed the coffee but lukewarm service quality and shoebox setting.
- Overall - 8/10 - start at 7.5 upgraded by 0.5pts for coffee. Near faultless execution of a comfort-style yet innovative items.

Bootsdarling, Darlinghurst

My view is this sits perilously close to must-try status. Memorable enough but not life changing. If you live close, it's a great option.

Will I be returning?
Yes, but very dish specific. Green Duk eggs and if they offer, baked eggs.