Race, Brunch, Repeat

Cafe Shekin shares the same excellent brunch genetics of its Enmore-based mother; Middle-Eastern tilt, massive serves. Honestly, the main difference is amusement over the local clientele.



Erskinville is weird. I observe marauding zombies sucking disposable cups whilst dragging squealing beasts on chains. False alarm - it's just a young demographic of coffee-addicts where ownership of a designer dog is mandatory.

Menu is the same as Enmore! No point repeating the fabulous avocado falafel (The Bite) or baked eggs (Shakshuka) when I've ventured this far...

Lucky, there is back-up.



Shenkin Stack - salmon, egg, bocconocini, labanne and tomato on sourdough - $18.

'Stack' has positive word associations. Thus I don't read the ingredients.



Similar to school and career, lack of literacy skills hurts. I may be on detention.

Clean egg-slicing technique and salmon layering appeals to my OCD. Taste wise, my best translation is a bruschetta married to a DIY Philadelphia cream-cheese job. Boring.



Above, note a giant leaf. It's a decoy and I fell for it. Next time, read the ingredients. 5/10.

Smoked eggplant, zuccini, israeli salad with creamy tahini sauce - $18

Like a black truffle (sub-terrain), a smoked eggplant is a rare find in cafes. Happy days when I sniff one out. Base is crispy with that beautiful charred flavour. With creamy sauce, there is a beautiful contrast.

Fresh, filling and tasty. How can I complain. 8/10.


Shenkin (any outpost) is 8/10. Though you'll never leave hungry at Shenkin, dish selection is an art:

- Good  - The Bite, Shakshuka, Hummus Plate.
- Regret - Shenkin Stack and any standard non-Israeli affairs.

Will I be returning?
Enmore, Surry Hills, Newtown or Erskinville. All the same.

In the world of farm-to-plate breakfasts, John Smith Cafe is my key pick for the forthcoming Silly Season.

Notice how beautiful food is normally restricted to rip-off degustations or vegan cafes? No longer, because the JS signature is below.



I'm very proud of my DSLR work standing on a stool.



Day kicks off reading a deceptively unique, seasonal and healthy menu. Top right - kitchen is showcasing some recently slaughtered animals. Vegetarians be warned.



I'm torn between two lamb choices. 'Shoulder' sounds fattier and tastier.

Slow cooked lamb shoulder with watercress, pearl cous cous and charred fennel - $22



Tick to yummy pull-apart and moist lamb. Well integrated is charred fennel and very light pearl balls. Feels premium, looks great and the statistician in me notes the lamb-to-ball ratio. Bang on, resulting in ideal density indulgence.

Each chew results in deep pleasure. I deny the missus a sharing opportunity; thus the main cost is not a blown $20 budget, but 3 days on the coach. Wallet survives, home situation unsure... 8/10.

Next up, more of a yardstick. Chicken, quinoa salad is dangerously overplayed in cafes but never before have I seen beetroot hummus.

Quinoa, roasted vegetable salad with beetroot hummus and chicken - $14 + 4


Expectations are very high based on the visual of this red substance.



Good protein generosity (say 150g). One of few cafe salads that avoids putting the diner on a rapid weight loss program. Individual elements are very sophisticated.

Sauce situation disappoints. I want bold flavours but the hummus is too mild. Still, I'm happy and full. 7/10.

Finally, the dish that has catapulted John Smith to stardom on social media. It's a beauty.
Hot avocado salsa, goats cheese and lime on sourdough - $16 + $3


I'm told blogger custom is to show aerial shots.


What a great cure to avo-on-toast disenchantment. We're forced to discard generational shackles of Asian lactose intolerance and embrace goats cheese OD. Enjoyment of flavour intensity is hosed down by the crippling knowledge I paid $3 for an egg. 8/10.

First visit was 7.5/10. I add 0.5pts due to the milking and slaughtering of animals:

- Food - 8/10 - great flavours, sophisticated offers.
- Value - 8/10 - relative to hipster joints, good calorie/$ ratio
- Other - 8/10 - hipster over-crowding issues but nails the coffee. Staff are so nice.
- Overall - 8/10 - a fancy, value-conscious take on classics.

Happy to recommend John Smith as a top 5 brunch in Sydney.

Will I be returning?
Yes
 Final shots below of the barista operation. Skinny cap. Tastes just right.



Red head barista is one of the owners.

John Smith Cafe is what happens when Sydney sees a goat population outbreak combined with a kitchen that I suspect is well equipped to milk mammals.

Goat cheese aside, JS almost makes you forget being served classic staples, albeit presented majestically. Still there is considerable value in fresh produce, poached eggs and some naughty cakes.

Today a $50 race fee saved on a 'bandit' at the Sydney Harbour 10km is reinvested in brunch.



Frustrated to see Alexandria incumbents picking at food in dire fear of actually eating. No wonder they are so skinny. Long wait is abated by a free lemon cake! Acceptably moist and certainly 'lemony'. For me, too sugary but it's all upside off a low base.

Vanilla lemon cake

Avo on toast with chilli jam - the signature and a magnificent one indeed...

Avocado salsa, goats cheese with sweet chilli on sourdough plus poached egg - $14 + $3

Tough ask to differentiate an avo-on-toast. I don't pay for this pleasure yet I'm not angry in the aftermath. Sweet chilli works the sweet tooth in all of us.

Nonetheless, I now hate goats - complete domination in the cheese. Dairy tolerance is high for an Asian, but not that high. Balance is thrown off.

The added poached eggs is clever, but the yolk river gives way to a translucent egg white. Failed execution.



Next up is a dietary feel-good attempt. Add the house cured trout, which to my surprise is in mush-form.  

Beetroot, cucumber, tomato, goats cheese and red onion salad with smoke cured trout - $14 + $3

I'm always annoyed by fancy dressing - note the thin balsamic circle. Trout tastes mild but I take pleasure in working through multiples of vegetables. Too much time spent looking, too little time lining the stomach. The 10 min taken to eat this leaves me hungrier.



Goats wins again. Cheese too strong.  Not the dish for a winter's day.

An above-the-pack, below-the-lead brunch:

- Food - 7/10 - differentiates by presentation and many elements. Fresh and vibrant.
- Value - 8/10 - mid teens pricing, good portions. Can't fault this.
- Other - 8/10 -  feel-at-home experience, staff genuinely good people.
- Overall - 7.5/10 - a 'back to basics' that does not break the bank.

One more shot of the avo-on-toast. Devil is in the detail.



I liken JS to Something for Jess or Cornersmith in the produce-on-toast niche. Unlike competitors, JS does not hide behind stingy portions. No doubt they source repeat clientele from value-focused Government housing residents nearby.

Will I be returning?
If I yearn for a fresh and simple feed, yes. Not if there is a wait.